Summer 2008
New Finds & Old Favorites: Dining in Vermont
By Marialisa Calta
Photographed by Jim Westphalen
What better way to celebrate Vermont's great food than by trying out a new restaurant? We've compiled a list of new places we think are worth a visit ("new" meaning that they've opened sometime in the last five years). We tried to be as comprehensive as possible, but no doubt we've missed some real gems, so feel free to pass along any suggestions to editors@VtLife.com.
Caveat eater: Make sure to call to check each restaurant's hours, and to make a reservation if needed.
go to Southern Vermont
go to Central Vermont
go to Northern Vermont
Southern Vermont
Brattleboro/Bellows Falls/Bennington/Manchester
Café Lotus, Brattleboro:
Enter this two-year-old restaurant through the Bull Moose Gallery and find an open, cheery place with a grand view of Mount Wantastiquet, across the Connecticut River. "International fusion cuisine" includes popular dishes like hummus wraps and green curry soup. FYI: The curry paste is homemade by chef and co-owner Tukta Long's brother in Thailand, and makes its way to Vermont in the suitcases of friends and clients who travel there.
802.254.6245
Alici's Bistro, Brattleboro:
When chef/owner Musa Alici, a native of Turkey, was working on the river-view deck of his eponymous eatery prior to its opening in 2007, a rainbow arched overhead and a small bird came and perched on his hand. "I don't really believe in such signs," he says, laughing, "but it seemed like an omen." All signs point to increasing popularity for Alici's Mediterranean flavors — pan-seared scallops with crème fraîche and caviar, fettuccine with roasted pine nuts and citrus sauce — and imaginative martinis. Try a "Green Mountains": Bombay sapphire gin, melon liqueur, and juice.
www.alicisbistro.com; 802.254.5600
Windham Wine Gallery, Brattleboro:
The town may have a certain "crunchy" rep, but there's nothing but an air of sophistication about this wine bar, which opened in 2007. Stop in for a glass of 2005 Gruner Veltliner from Austria or a 2003 Tempranillo from Spain, and nibble on a plate of rabbit pâté or a selection of Vermont artisan cheeses. They have microbrews on offer, too, and a regular schedule of wine tasting and classes.
www.windhamwines.com; 802.246.0877
Vermont Pretzel Café, Bellows Falls:
The Formica tables and historic photos — not to mention the location in the landmark old Newberry's — gives this eatery a retro feel, but the stuffed pretzels (cheese, pesto) are a recent creation from chef/owner Christine Holtz. Holtz twisted her first pretzel to go with some Guinness nearly 20 years ago as a treat for Irish performers at the Putney Playhouse. One pretzel, she says, led to another. And three years ago it led to the café.
802.460.2424
Curtis' All-American Restaurant, Chester:
Curtis Tuff's "baby girl" Sarah is all grown up and has a place of her own. Like her dad's "Ninth Wonder of the World" barbecue in Putney (see "Old Faves"), Sarah and her fiancé, Chris Parker, are serving up barbecued ribs and chicken with the family's award-winning, North Carolina-style sauce. Unlike the Putney establishment, Sarah's is an indoor restaurant (with picnic tables, smoker and grill outside) open year-round, and also has slow-cooked brisket and pulled pork on the menu.
www.curtisbbqvt.com; 802.875.6999
Pangaea Lounge, North Bennington:
Five years ago, chef William Scully and his wife Maria opened this casual dining spot next door to their acclaimed Pangaea restaurant; regulars applaud the cassoulet and four-cheese macaroni as much as they appreciate the huge deck overlooking Paran Creek. A few years later the Scullys took over the venerable Powers Market, which offers five tables for deli-style eating. A year ago — with partners Geoffrey Klose and Anna Sturges — they opened Allegro Ristorante in Bennington, which specializes in Italian food, like diver scallops with cracked pepper and lemon risotto.
www.vermontfinedining.com; 802.442.4466
The Lawyer and the Baker, Manchester Center:
This breakfast and lunch shop is owned by Kevin (the lawyer) and Jessica (the baker) Rambold, and features homemade breads and pastries, and specials like a curried chicken salad and butternut squash soup.
802.366.8018
The Bean, Manchester:
You'll find enchiladas and chimichangas on this Mexican eatery's menu, but also some surprises: tostones (fried plantains) with caviar, crab cakes, mahi-mahi tacos and shrimp fajitas among them. Regulars like the funky interior — wainscoting made of old doors, eclectic furnishings — made or refinished by chef/woodworker/owner Scott French, who prides himself on his from-scratch cooking. "There's not a can opener in the place," he says proudly.
http://thebeanrestaurant.com; 802.362.0110
OLD FAVES:
- Riverview Café, Brattleboro
- Shin-La, Brattleboro
- Chelsea Royal Diner, West Brattleboro
- Curtis' All-American BBQ, Putney
- Blue Benn Diner, Bennington
- Up for Breakfast, Manchester Center
Central Vermont
Rutland to Stowe
Kismet, Montpelier
It makes you feel a bit sheepish to say "I Am Beautiful," but clients who want the so-named crêpe at this cozy new eatery are learning to pipe up for their favorite: a buckwheat crêpe with poached chicken, goat cheese and pistou, served with lemon-scented cream and roasted root vegetables. Locally grown or direct-sourced ingredients — sugar from a collective farm in Florida, rice from Arkansas, not to mention chicken from Misty Knoll and meat from Winding Brook Farm — are what owners Crystal Maderia and Alanna Dorf are all about.
www.kismetkitchen.com; 802.223.8646
Café Provence, Brandon:
His many fans feel lucky that French-born, French- and Swiss-trained chef Robert Barral settled in Vermont, first as executive chef at the New England Culinary Institute and now as the co-owner, with his wife Line, of this charming spot. An open hearth oven produces specialty pizzas (portobello, barbecued pork) as well as roasted organic chicken and shrimp scampi on polenta. Wine tastings, cooking classes and a nearby food store, Gourmet Provence, give you plenty of reasons to visit.
www.cafeprovencevt.com; 802.247.9997
Park Squeeze, Vergennes:
"Healthy-minded," is how Betsy Vick — a former organic farmer — describes her clientele. This gem — squeezed between two buildings and once the site of the Park Restaurant diner — draws do-it-yourselfers who love the "Be-The-Bowl" soup or stir-fry offerings, which allow patrons to choose from five different broths or stir-fry sauces, a variety of noodles, rice and proteins. Salads, wraps and breakfast items are also popular.
www.parksqueeze.com; 802.877.9996
The Green Cup Café, Waitsfield:
A year ago, chef Jason Gulisano left work at various Relais & Châteaux properties (French for "very expensive") to take over this relatively humble eatery. The chef says it's the relationships that he has formed — with area farmers and producers, and with his patrons — that keep him happy. His patrons say it is the offerings of exceptional from-scratch scones and pastries, and the organic "specialty egg menu" (baked eggs in a cup, anyone?) that keep them going back.
802.496.4963
The Black Door Bar & Bistro, Montpelier:
Venison dumplings, pulled-pork quesadillas, and a bargain burger with hand-cut fries made an instant — and lasting — impression on Central Vermonters when this upstairs eatery opened four years ago. A seasonal deck provides alternate seating to the brick-walled interior, which one review described as a "New Orleans noir" atmosphere.
www.blackdoorvt.com; 802.223.7070
Cider House BBQ and Pub, Waterbury:
Located in a former roadhouse, this restaurant serves ‘cue (brisket, pork, ribs) and Southern comforts, like gumbo, chicken-fried steak and blackened catfish. Locally made sweet and hard ciders are on offer, along with a full range of beers and liquors. Chef Tara Tracy, a NECI grad, puts the emphasis on quality ingredients, many of them local.
www.ciderhousevt.com; 802.244.8400
The Red Hen Café, Middlesex:
For eight years, Central Vermonters have been swooning over the crusty organic breads produced by Red Hen Baking Company, but the opening of a café in the bakery's new location has pulled in a whole new set of fans lured by the scones, croissants, pain au chocolate and maple glazed sticky buns. For lunch, try the brioche tarts topped with caramelized onions and Jasper Hill Bailey Hazen Blue Cheese, or the soup from Sugar Snap in Burlington, made with local meats and vegetables. All butter, eggs, milk and maple syrup are locally sourced.
www.redhenbaking.com; 802.223.5200
The Alchemist Pub and Brewery, Waterbury:
Aficionados will pit the brews from this pub against any craft beer in New England, and they regularly crowd this night spot not just to drink but to sample the beer-friendly menu: meatloaf, shepherd's pie, sausage plates and — pucker up! — homemade pickles. Brewer John Kimmich keeps five brews on tap every night: a red ale, an IPA, a porter, a light beer, and a cask-conditioned ale that changes with the season.
www.alchemistbeer.com; 802.244.4120
Pie-Casso, Stowe:
Watch the chefs hand-toss pizza in the open kitchen of this popular dining spot, owned by Eduardo Rovetto, who learned the pizza business from his Sicilian-born parents. Sick of tomato sauce? You can order your pizza with a pesto, barbecue sauce, or white garlic base. Plenty of non-pizza options and a children's menu.
www.piecasso.com; 802.253.4411
Norma's at Topnotch, Stowe:
An open kitchen, views of Mount Mansfield, and an emphasis on fresh, organic, local foods — not to mention dishes like gnocchi with lobster and grilled asparagus and olive brochette — give locals a reason to join resort guests at this newly built restaurant. Kids in tow? Hold the fish sticks! Sophisticated tykes can order from a children's menu that offers a fresh, grilled fish of the day, crudités and dip, and a "junior" caesar salad. Just like Mommy and Daddy.
www.topnotchresort.com; 800.451.8686
The Bee's Knees, Morrisville:
You gotta love a place that has a "supper" instead of a "dinner" menu, and prices for tasty dishes like Moroccan Lamb Pot Pie and Meatloaf With Cheddar for under $15, especially when many of the ingredients are locally sourced. "Vegan-safe" offerings and live music bring in the crowds. An expansion is going to give the restaurant a full kitchen and liberate chef/owner Sharon Deitz from having to cook all the food in her upstairs apartment and bring it down to diners.
www.thebeesknees-vt.com; 802.888.7889
Hen of the Wood, Waterbury
For a while, Vermonters tried to keep this rustically elegant restaurant our own little secret, but the national food press — including Food & Wine and Gourmet — soon blew our cover. The brined, lightly smoked and pan seared duck, braised short ribs and artisan cheese selection have been singled out for praise. Chef/owners Eric Warnstedt (left) and Craig Tresser, who comb the countryside for locally sourced and foraged ingredients, change the menu nightly.
www.henofthewood.com; 802.244.7300
OLD FAVES:
- Perfect Pear Café, Bradford
- Hemingway's, Killington
- Pane e Salute, Woodstock
- Simon Pearce, Quechee
- River Run, Plainfield
- Sean & Nora's, Barre
- Sarducci's, Montpelier
- Michael's on the Hill, Waterbury Center
- The Shed, Stowe
- The Whip, Stowe
- Trattoria La Festa, Stowe
- Gil's Delicatessen, Rutland
- Ariel's, Brookfield
- American Flatbread, Waitsfield
- Pitcher Inn, Warren
- Black Sheep Bistro, Vergennes
- Mary's Restaurant, Bristol
- Bristol Bakery & Café, Bristol
Northern Vermont
The Northeast Kingdom and Burlington area
Goldie's Gathering, Cabot:
Across from Town Hall and next door to the hardware store — a perfect location for this new local favorite. Chefs Scott St. John — who also cooks at the Cabot K-12 school — and Brian Rossell — a local boy and New England Culinary Institute grad — supply the eats that keep the regulars happy. From pancakes at breakfast to stuffed filet of sole at dinner, Goldie's dishes it out and draws them in.
802.563.3377
Elements, St. Johnsbury:
Located in an old wood-working mill on the Passumpsic River, this dining spot offers what chef and co-owner Florence Chamberlin calls "modern-American" cuisine, with a heavy emphasis on local production: cheeses from Jasper Hill Farm, mushrooms from celebrity foragers Nova Kim and Les Hook, homemade breads, pâtés and ice creams. Attentive waitstaff may even entertain your children while you enjoy the signature smoked trout cakes.
www.elementsfood.com; 748.8400
The Parson's Corner, Barton:
Enjoy bacon and eggs, burgers, and sandwiches in an 1867 parsonage. Lunch dishes of "hearty New England fare" are on tap: turkey dinner, Yankee pot roast, baked beans, clam chowder and — yum! — chicken potpie.
802.525.4500
The Parker Pie Co., West Glover:
This tiny eatery in the back of the Lake Parker Country Store offers thin-crust, "artisan" pizza, Vermont brews, calzones, salads, killer dessert pies, and a clientele that could be auditioning for a remake of "Hair."
www.parkerpie.com; 802.525.3366
Big Chile Republic, Colchester:
If you have a hankering for Latin-Filipino fusion cuisine, this is the place. Or go if you just like the sound (we do!) of the adobo chicken — marinated, roasted and served with a "queso fresco hash" — that is a house specialty. Born as a take-out joint, this eatery made the leap to full-fledged restaurant in January. "We get everyone from the gentlemen who hang out at the skate park to my daughter's physician," says chef and co-owner Chris Hechanova.
www.bigchilerepublic.net; 802.655.2500
Lake-View Restaurant, South Burlington:
The legions of fans of Shelburne Farms and Starry Night Café (see "Old Faves") rejoiced when David Hugo, the original chef-owner there, opened this relaxed eatery in a 19th century Victorian farmhouse. The menu reeks of UN-pretentiousness — simple steaks, fish, Yankee Pot Roast prepared from scratch. You can even glimpse a view of the lake — from the second floor.
802.865.3900
Tiny Thai, Winooski:
Customers have learned to expect a wait for a table at this hopping eatery, but fans are not complaining. Drunken Noodles, Pad Thai, Ginger Chicken and a host of other dishes keep people coming back. Reasonable prices and a BYOB policy make this eatery a tasty bargain as well.
802.655.4888
The Skinny Pancake, Burlington
Crêpes ("skinny pancakes," get it?) overstuffed with Cabot cheddar, Vermont Smoke & Cure Ham, Shadow Cross Farm eggs and other local goodies are offered at this year-old waterfront dining spot. Locals know that it started (and still exists) as a cart on Church Street.
www.skinnypancake.com; 802.540.0188
L'Amante, Burlington:
Kevin Cleary is of Irish, German and Welsh heritage, but that didn't get in the way of his opening, with his wife, Kathi, this Northern Italian restaurant. Kevin trained in Italy, and his menu features Ligurian-inspired seafood dishes like potato-crusted sea bass (shown here), along with the more traditional Bolognese sauce on penne. The place has a polished, urban look. "The staff may wear starched white shirts, but they also wear jeans," says the chef. And the wine list? Long. And 95 percent Italian.
www.lamante.com; 802.863.5200
OLD FAVES:
- Rainbow Sweets, Marshfield
- Busy Bee, Glover (under new management!)
- The Belfry, Montgomery Center
- Lago Trattoria, Newport
- Inn at Shelburne Farms, Shelburne
- Café Shelburne, Shelburne
- Starry Night Café, Ferrisburgh
- Leunig's Bistro, Burlington
- Smokejacks, Burlington
- Trattoria Delia, Burlington
- A Single Pebble, Burlington
- Stone Soup, Burlington
- Penny Cluse, Burlington
- Sneakers, Winooski
- Pizza on Earth, Charlotte
- The Kitchen Table Bistro, Richmond
- Country Pantry, Fairfax
- Chow!Bella, St. Albans
Contributors include: Melissa Pasanen, Molly Stevens, Andrea Chesman, Susan Stuck, Carolyn Malcoun, Dirk Van Susteren, Jen Hazard, Jim Romanoff, Deborah Krasner, Rux Martin and Amy Trubek