Spring 2010


Getaways

Full Circle
Park imitates life at sculpture garden in Windsor

By Peggy Shinn
Photographed by Vyto Starinskas

Vermont Life Spring 2010

Until you've experienced it, the Path of Life Garden can be a tough sell. Just ask my husband Andy. "The garden of what?" he asked after I suggested we stop by on a sunny day last May.

"It's a sculpture garden in Windsor that symbolizes the circle of life," I said. He furrowed his brow. "There's a brewery next door," I offered.

His eyebrows rose. "Oh, OK."

I did not mention that the Simon Pearce glass factory and its retail store are also next door.

We arrived at the garden's entrance — a huge metal culvert under railroad tracks that separate the garden from the Harpoon Brewery and Simon Pearce — and Andy's brow furrowed again. Dubbed the Tunnel of Oblivion — from this side, at least; from the other, it's the Gateway to Eternity — the culvert held little promise.

"Let's at least look at it," I said, taking our 8-year-old daughter Samantha by the hand and heading through the tunnel.

It opened up to reveal a 14-acre field dotted with 18 earthy sculpture areas, all in circular formations and connected by a mowed path. The Connecticut River flowed quietly just beyond the garden. We started along the path, and 45 minutes later, Andy agreed that a cold draft back at the brewery was actually an added benefit, not a reward.

The Path of Life Garden was started 13 years ago by Terry McDonnell, a child therapist from nearby Norwich. McDonnell was inspired after visiting the Japanese Gardens at Tully, a garden in Ireland that symbolizes the journey of a human soul from birth to death.

"As a therapist, I try to help people think of where they are in their lives and if they're happy with it," he says. "In the Path of Life Garden, your entire life is there in 14 acres. Where else does that happen?"

The path begins, of course, at Birth, a Stonehenge-like circle of upended stones surrounding a smaller one (follow the arrow or you'll encounter Death too soon). Samantha bopped the "baby" stone on its "head," then ran toward Adventure, a circular maze made from 6-foot hemlocks in which we took almost every wrong turn possible en route to the center.

Next up was a choice: the Hill of Learning or a less strenuous route to Hope, with its colorful prayer wheels, and Creativity, home to a larger-than-life "band" of musicians, made of driftwood.

From here, we chose the path to Union and Family rather than going to Nieces and Nephews, two stones that look like child-size boulders.

The path nears its end at Contemplation, where a Buddha overlooks a stone labyrinth and the whole garden beyond. "You can see your whole life from here," explains McDonnell.

Death, a stand of massive maple tree trunks, and Rebirth, a country churchyard-like fence filled with small birches, complete the circle.

"People experience the garden on their own," McDonnell says. "It's not a guided tour. You make a little of it or a lot of it.

"It physically creates a little space to reflect," he adds.

The guest book — located in a barn by the brewery — speaks volumes. After experiencing the garden, one woman wrote, "This is the first time my husband and I have talked in seven years."

Another commented: "This is my favorite place on earth."

As we headed for the brewery — Harpoon IPA for us, fresh-brewed root beer for Samantha — Andy conceded, "It was interesting." Then after a pause, he added, "It was artfully done and subtly effective, almost unconsciously so."

For Samantha, the garden was a playground. She ran through the maze, played air guitar with the driftwood band, stuck her head through the Union wheel and sat cross-legged beneath one of the Easter Island-type heads in Community. She ran up the hill of Ambition and spun in the circle of Forgiveness. And in Respite, we lay in a hammock and looked up through the forest canopy at the blue sky. By the time we hit Death, she was skipping.

What a way to approach life.

Inns and outings

River trips are planned at the Path of Life Garden for 2010. Visitors can rent a canoe or raft and be shuttled about four miles up the Connecticut River to Sumner Falls, then paddle or float back to a landing at the garden.

Harpoon Brewery offers the closest dining, at tables or at the bar. The menu is pub fare and features items such as a BLT panini made from Vermont smoked bacon and locally baked bread or a grilled cheese sandwich with Cabot cheddar. On tap are many of Harpoon's favorites, such as Raspberry Hefeweizen or India Pale Ale. 336 Ruth Carney Drive, Windsor. Open most days, hours vary seasonally. (888) 427-7666 or www.harpoonbrewery.com.

The Simon Pearce store is at 109 Park Road in Windsor. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. (802) 674-6280 or www.simonpearce.com.

Should you wish to spend the night, these are two nearby inns:

Juniper Hill Inn, Windsor

(800) 359-2541

www.juniperhillinn.com

A former country manor built in 1902, this hilltop inn has 16 guest rooms appointed with fine period antiques. It's a favorite wedding spot.

Norwich Inn, Norwich

(802) 649-1143

www.norwichinn.com

A landmark in Norwich since 1797, this historic inn has 14 guest rooms — standard to deluxe — and two suites in the main inn. All are furnished with Victorian antiques but also feature modern amenities such as flat screen TVs and wireless Internet access. The Inn recently added The Ivy Lodge, which has four modern king rooms with curb-side access, and will open another 18-room guest house this spring.